trip report: mexico city

hanging out between fundacion jumex and museo soumaya

I am writing this post about two months after we took this weeklong trip to Mexico during Avvie’s February break. It is unfathomable to think about how much our world has changed in just these eight-plus weeks. But, as I mentioned in the last post, I’m trying to use this “bonus” time to update my blog at least a little bit. I’m starting with our past few trips, because reminiscing about them makes me happy and reminds me that we will get to explore the world once again. Until then, though, please remember to STAY INSIDE.

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Mexico City had been a trip that was on our bucket list for a few years. It offers a lot of our favorite activities on vacation: incredible food, a sprawling city with many different neighborhoods to explore, fantastic museums, and great weather nearly all year. We ended up splitting our time in CDMX (Ciudad de Mexico) into two halves, with our trip to San Miguel de Allende sandwiched in between.

The first half, we booked a room at Las Alcobas, a boutique hotel in the Polanco neighborhood. The staff there is amazing: the concierge actually managed to snag me a reservation at Pujol, so they’re basically magicians. We also enjoyed our lunch at the on-site restaurant, Dulce Patria, which was recommended to us a bunch of times. The one snafu was the the hotel doesn’t actually normally take kids as young as Avvie (4), so once we checked in, it turned out they had no cots or pack and plays, nor could they help us find a babysitter, either. So, that was fun. She ended up sleeping on the couch, which we turned to face the wall, so it was kind of like a giant, three-sided pack and play. If you’re going without kids, this is a very chic boutique property in CDMX’s most upscale neighborhood, but I wouldn’t stay here with kids.

the dreamy courtyard at the four seasons

The second leg, we figured we’d test out a different neighborhood, so we booked a room at the Four Seasons Mexico City in Juarez. With a kid, this was definitely the superior option. Our room was much bigger and the location was closer to Condesa and Roma, where we did a lot of our eating and exploring. It’s also very close to Bosque de Chapultepec, which is kind of like Mexico City’s Central Park. It’s also worth noting that the hotel’s bar, Fifty Mils, is one of the city’s coolest watering holes.

Rather than give you a breakdown of our day-by-day, I’m gonna organize this by activity. As always, feel free to shoot me a note if you have any specific questions. I’m happy to answer!

food

This was the main reason why we decided to come to CDMX and the city did not disappoint us. From grabbing the juiciest mangoes from street vendors to fancy dinners at places like Pujol, there is truly something for every type of foodie here. You could easily spend an entire trip just eating street food for breakfast, lunch, and dinner (and spending less than $10!), which is one of the city’s biggest culinary draws. But we also went to quite a few restaurants that were spectacular, so I would make reservations in advance for the buzzy spots. I’ve broken them down by meal below.

breakfast

hot chocolate, nata, and concha at el cardenal

El Cardenal: This mini-chain is old school in the best possible way. We saw many older businessmen with bibs being tied around their necks to keep their suits clean. Do you need any other reason to go? I’ll give you more anyway: the conchas pastries slathered with nata (a type of thickened cream), the hot chocolate that’s mixed tableside, and huge plates of scrambled eggs topped with chorizo and cheese.

Lardo: At the other end of the spectrum is Lardo, which feels a bit like a chic cafe you’d find In Soho or Williamsburg, but with a decidedly nuevo-Mexican menu. Get here early to avoid a wait and then load up on pastries sourced from their sister bakery Rosetta while you peruse the menu (YOU MUST GET THE GUAVA BUN). I was a big fan of their oatmeal, but you can’t go wrong with anything here.

There were a few other spots that we had wanted to try, but either didn’t have time or the wait was too long. Fonda Margarita is a beloved, breakfast-only haunt that is famous for their guisados (a type of stew), but the line was around the block when we got there and we had timed tickets to Casa Azul, so we couldn’t wait. Eno is Enrique Olvera’s casual breakfast spot that looked very delicious, but we ran out mornings to try it. In terms of street food for breakfast, I definitely recommend grabbing a juice or smoothie from a stall or stand; one of my favorites ended up being the shop right next to Fonda Margarita.

We also signed up for a fabulous breakfast food crawl with Eat Mexico, where we got to try everything from quesadillas to tacos to sandwiches to sweets. Food tours are one of our favorite ways to explore a city in the first days that we’re there: not only do you get to try a lot of the local specialities, but the tour also helps to orient you within the city.

lunch

It’s worth noting that many Mexicans consider this their biggest meal of the day, so there are a fair amount of restaurants that do a spectacular lunch service, and then aren’t even open for dinner.

Contramar: If there is one bite that I’m still dreaming of months later, it’s the tuna tostada from here. It is piled high with perfectly marinated tuna, crispy leeks, and a chipotle mayo that’s just the right blend of creamy and spicy. But, if you like seafood, you can basically order anything off this menu and be in paroxysms of joy. It’s also amazing to watch how fast the waiters move from table to table. Reservations are a must.

Mercado de Coyocan: I highly recommend stopping in here before or after you tour Casa Azul. There are so many stands to explore, both for food and gifts.

Mercado San Juan: We took a tour of this market with a guide that the Four Seasons arranged for us. The best part was trying tacos and quesadillas that were made with more unusual ingredients, like alligator or wild boar. Avvie requested (and ate!) grasshoppers, here.

dinner

El Turix: We obviously ate our weight in tacos while in CDMX, but my most memorable bite was at this hole in the wall, just a few minutes walk from Las Alcobas. El Turix does one thing and it does it perfectly: cochinita pibil, a soupy shredded pork in a rich, orange-adobe sauce. Grab 3 or so per person, then sit out on the curb to scarf them down.

Maximo Bistrot: Many people told me this was their favorite dinner spot in the whole city. We came here for our last night in town, and it definitely has a wonderfully chic, relaxed vibe that makes you want to linger over your candlelit meal. The food is a French-Italian mix, so it’s a good choice if you’ve had your fill of Mexican (if that’s possible).

Pujol: Most likely the most famous restaurant in Mexico, securing reservations here can be a full-time job. But, if you can manage to snag one, it is a pretty magical experience. Mike and I left Avvie at home for this one, since we couldn’t get a reservation earlier than 9:45PM. And while we did see a couple of kids there, I would only bring them if you really had no other choice; this is a true white tablecloth spot. Mike and I each had a seven-course meal, although we were able to choose two different menus. The standout (and most famous) dish is the mole madre, which is made with a little of the previous day’s sauce. When we were there, it was day 2,117!

Restaurante Nicos: For our first meal in the city, we opted to try this traditional spot, which Is a short cab ride away from Polanco. I was so excited to finally be eating Mexican food in Mexico and I couldn’t have picked a better place for our inaugural meal. From tableside guacamole to queso fundido, everything we tried felt like the platonic ideal of the dish. They were also wonderful with Avvie, even making her off-menu, kid-friendly tostadas without asking.

As for street food: our favorite neighborhoods were Roma and Condesa. Just wander around until you find something that looks too good to pass up. Or, follow the line! A crowded street stand will always be a good one (plus, you know their food is fresh because the turnover is high).

sweets

the unparalleled churros and hot chocolate from el moro

Equally important to your mealtimes will be many breaks for pastries, churros, and ice cream. Here are some of our favorites.

Churreria El Moro: No one is more famous for their churros than this chain, and rightfully so. They are made fresh-to-order, are perfectly crisp, and come blanketed in cinnamon and sugar. Their hot chocolate, served with a huge cap of whipped cream, is also not to be missed.

Helados Siberia: We had excellent ice cream at this shop in Coyoacan, which has been around since 1930. If it’s a nice day, bring your cone to the park across the street and people watch.

Neveria Roxy: The most famous ice cream in the city is at Roxy, and with nine locations, you’ll probably bump into one eventually. We had a wonderful afternoon snack at the one in Condesa. My favorite was the platano flavor.

Panaderia Rosetta: As mentioned above, this mini-chain pastry shop has incredible stuff. You CANNOT leave Mexico without trying one of the guava rolls, but it’s good idea to try basically anything on the menu that’s in stock. We even took a bunch of stuff home with us on the plane.

Pasteleria Ideal: Unlike Rosetta, which is very hip, Pasteleria Ideal is as old-school as they come. It’s also a very fun experience: you grab a tray upfront and then wander the aisles of pastries, picking up whichever ones strike your fancy. Then, someone at the front wraps up everything for you. I must have gotten a least half a dozen, but my favorite was a whole-wheat, sweetened sort of scone-biscuit hybrid. I’m still thinking about it.

sightseeing

the courtyard of the anthropology museum

I always make a Google Map before a trip so I can figure out what activities are in close proximity together. Most likely, if it’s your first time to the city, you’ll be hanging out in the neighborhoods of Condesa, Roma, Juarez, and Centro Historico. Depending on how long you’re there, you may spend a day in Coyoacan to see Casa Azul (and I loved wandering around this area). If you’re a foodie, you will have at least one meal in Polanco, but, to be honest, I didn’t find a lot of interesting cultural sites here, other than the two museums mentioned below. Our favorite neighborhoods to spend time in were definitely Condesa and Roma: lots of hip boutiques, great street food, and beautiful streets to stroll.

Bosque de Chapultepec: This is CDMX’s answer to Central Park and we had fun strolling through it from Polanco to the neighborhoods further southeast. There are also a lot of playgrounds here, for when your kid needs to burn off some energy.

Casa Azul: My absolute favorite place we visited was Frida Kahlo’s home in the leafy, beautiful neighborhood of Coyoacan. Tickets go on sale months in advance and sell out quickly, so make sure you plan ahead. It is so fascinating to see her home the way she lived in it, as well as the incredible collection of her clothes that’s housed in an auxiliary building.

Fundacion Jumex: Contemporary art museum Jumex and Museo Soumaya (more below) are right next to each other in a northern part of Polanco. I definitely recommend taking a few hours to visit both; their collections are wonderful. When we were there, Jumex had an incredible, immersive James Turrell exhibit.

Lucha Libre at Arena Mexico: We made a last minute decision to get a babysitter for another night and check out this famed Mexican wrestling spectacular. This was a good decision! Not only did we have a fabulous meal of street food in Condesa beforehand, but we had a blast watching these colorfully attired, attention-grabbing dudes just absolutely pound on each other.

Museo Nacional de Antropologia: I’m generally more of an art than a history museum person, but this is the most visited museum in Mexico, so I thought it was worth a trip. It is truly a fascinating look at the cultures of Mexico past and present, with jaw-dropping artifacts and in-depth exhibits. Plan for at least a few hours here.

Museo Soumaya: The super modern outside of this art museum is almost reason enough to visit, but the collection inside is also unbelievable and vast. As you keep climbing the spiraling ramp inside the building, there are levels and levels of masterpieces from the likes of Rodin, Monet, Renoir, Degas… I especially loved all the sculptures on the top floor.

Zocalo: This is the main square in the Centro Historico and is also the largest plaza in all of Latin America. The people watching here is amazing, as is to be expected. My favorite major sites around it include the Metropolitan Cathedral, the Templo Mayor archeological site (we didn’t have time to visit this and just looked at it from the square, sadly), the Palacio de Correos (a working post office with stunning architecture), and the Palacio de Bellas Artes. We JUST missed getting to see the Diego Rivera murals inside the Palacio Nacional, which was a bummer, but gives us something to look forward to on our next trip.

And that’s a wrap! I’m very grateful we were able to take this trip before the global lockdown started. Reminiscing about our favorite street tacos and marathon-long sightseeing walks definitely helps us from going stir-crazy now.